Salmon: Swimming in the Pack or in the Lead?

written by: Patrick Hutchinson, Selby Meat Buyer

Many people were stunned and thrilled by the recent announcement from the Target Corporation that it plans to phase out farmed salmon from its mega-stores. There are many problems with most farmed salmon, from inhumane conditions for the fish, to waste runoff and secondary species damage. In most cases, wild-caught salmon is a much better option, particularly in well-managed fisheries. We are pleased that Target has come to recognize the benefits of more sustainable sourcing and feel that their corporate leadership should be proud of this choice.

But who is really responsible for Target’s decision? As it turns out, you are!

As a loyal co-op grocery shopper at places like Mississippi Market (and our decades of dedication to small, sustainable sourcing), you’ve helped prove to corporate giants such as Target that there is a real, viable and vibrant market for more carefully sourced foods.

Making the best choices towards the future of our food is never a cakewalk, and the world of fish and seafood is perhaps one of the most difficult to navigate. Wild-caught fish is often considered the best choice, but until the day when all the fisheries in the world are properly cared for, farming will be necessary to one degree or another. Otherwise, the “best” choice may become exhausted, and we’ll have no real choice at all.

While Target’s decision is to be lauded, it doesn’t exactly mean a final proof that farmed salmon is by definition the worst choice. There are several newer farming methods that are gaining traction as more sustainable models, including freshwater farms located far inland to avoid ocean damage, and sea-based systems that avoid some of the worst negative impacts on the ecosystem. One of the few farm-raised salmon products we carry here at the Co-op, Loch Duart, falls into the latter category. These fish are raised in low-density conditions, fed GMO-free feeds, and anti-foulant chemicals are avoided. Perhaps most interestingly, the stock is moved from pen to pen frequently in order to allow some of the pens to lie fallow, much as crop rotation works in agriculture. While not yet perfect, new systems such as this one offer hope that salmon farming can become a sustainable option, and should be encouraged.

It remains to be seen how Target’s switch will affect the wild salmon fishing industry. Early reports indicate that they plan to sell their wild-caught fish for much less than the market standard, in keeping with their mega-store philosophy. How this price slashing will impact small family fishing companies such as those the Market has long sourced from is not yet known. One of the core principles underlying the concept of sustainability is that the people involved in production are able to make a fair living. That’s why the Mississippi Market will continue to focus on small, family-run Alaskan fishery operations such as Misty Fjord (Fran Kaul of WA, and family), Alaskan Wild Fish Co. (Roger Pietron and family, based in MN), and Loki Fish (the Knutson family, also of WA), while also purchasing a portion of fresh salmon from smaller, more responsible farms like those under the Loch Duart banner.

Here’s hoping that Target’s choice is a successful one for them, for the fish and fishermen, and ultimately for all of us. Meanwhile, the Mississippi Market will continue to stay ahead of the curve in working with the best mix of small producers for your food.